INUIT

Adam Kjeldsen wants to show the world the Greenland that has shaped him

On the mountain, Adam Kjeldsen is exactly where he belongs.
Published

The engine hums low over the water as the boat cuts through the cold fjord.

Ahead, the mountains rise steeply and white towards the sky. Adam Kjeldsen stands by the railing and scouts towards land, as if he is reading a language that few understand. He knows where the snow is best. Where the wind is blowing. Where to tread carefully.

Soon he will lead today's guests to the summit, where silence takes over, and only skis against snow break the sound. But for Adam, the trip is about more than views and descents. It is about showing people the Greenland that shaped him. For Adam Kjeldsen, the mountains are not just a workplace. They are home.

Heading towards the mountain, Adam Kjeldsen stands by the railing and scouts towards land, where today's trip begins.

Where the adventure begins

Adam Kjeldsen grows up in Aasiaat with his parents and two older sisters – in a childhood characterized by fresh air, movement and a life close to nature. Here, the outdoors is a part of life from the very beginning, the family has a boat and the sea is a natural part of everyday life. At the same time, skis are almost on their feet before the first steps are taken, and the winter snow becomes just as natural as sailing.

“Alpinism immediately became my biggest interest. I think it was the speed and the community that captured me,” Adam says with a smile.

Adam is quickly signed up for the local ski club. But there is no ski lift in Aasiaat. If you want to go down, you have to go up first. The trips up the hill are therefore Adam’s first encounter with the discipline and rhythm that many years later will develop into a passion for cross-country skiing – where the ascent is just as important a part of the experience as the descent.

Adam Kjeldsen during an alpine competition on Tupilak in Aasiaat in 1989.

The weekends in Aasiaat are spent training and competing, and as the talent grows, the skis also become a ticket to the rest of the country.

– I did well, so the Disko Bay Championships became the Greenland Championships, and suddenly I was skiing around Greenland. That was great, he says.

But it's not just the snow that shapes him. The sea does the same. The family sails often – and further than most. The parents' sense of adventure rubs off on the children, and the desire to search for the horizon becomes part of Adam's worldview early on.

– When I was 14, we went on a long voyage and spent a whole year sailing to the southernmost Caribbean and back again, Adam says, excited by the thought of his childhood's great journey.

He is taking 9th grade aboard the ship, and in the small cabin he shares both space and everyday life with his sister – and his big stereo system, which he has dragged from home. Because even though 36 feet doesn't give much elbow room, he is still a teenager. Music has to come with him. He ties the system next to the bed and lets the sounds of Pearl Jam and Nirvana fill the cabin. And when they approach land and the signal is finally picked up, another world opens up on the radio.

On a deserted Caribbean island during the family's round-trip sailing trip from Greenland to South America in 1996-97. Here with his sister Kimmernaq and mother Dorthe.

– As we approached Florida, I found a radio station that played all the latest stuff that hadn’t even reached Greenland yet. They always said: “You’re listening to 103.1 – The Buzz.” I was absolutely crazy about it. I put in a cassette tape and started recording. I actually still have some of those tapes, Adam says, laughing.

And that’s how the foundation for his adventurous spirit and life between mountains and sea is created. Between the ski slopes in Aasiaat, the waves on the open sea and the music from a stereo system in a cramped cabin.

A youth in a sweater

After school, the sea pulls at Adam again. He wants to go to sea with the training ship Danmark, but he’s too young. Instead, the trip first goes to Argentina for six months before he finally gets a place on board.

– I wanted to go out and see more of the world and sail, Adam says.

On board he quickly settles in. There are no quiet days on the ship. Everything is movement, tasks and community – and that suits him.

On board the training ship Danmark in 2000 together with cadets from the Chilean training ship.

– We slept 40 people in a room in hammocks. It was a cool form of education, he says, laughing at the memory.

Later he returns home to Greenland for a short while. But it is not enough. The jersey – as he himself calls it – is still calling. He reports for military service in Skive.

– All the men in my family had been in the jersey, so it was a bit of a no-brainer. And it actually suited me well. I thrived in being active, contributing and being part of something bigger, he says.

He stays in Denmark for seven years. He starts boatbuilding training after military service and works his way towards the sea. But beneath the surface something else begins to pull. Something cold, sharp and familiar. The snow. The mountains. The skis.

– I simply got a weekend job in Sweden, where I taught skiing. It was quite intense commuting back and forth, but I just had to get my skis under my feet again, he says.

Father and sons on their way to the northern peak of Sermitsiaq.

There is no doubt in his voice. It is not a hobby. It is a necessity. During his years in Denmark, he meets Anja, and they later get married. Together, they have two sons, Ilik and younger brother Miki, who is called Nuka. Later, the family moves to Nuuk, where Nuka is born. The relationship doesn't last, but they make it work around the boys. And some of what Adam carries with him is starting to show in the next generation.

– Ilik has a great interest in skiing, while Nuka has inherited my interest in music, he says with a smile.

Adam has returned home to Greenland, but not yet completely back to himself. That will only happen when the snow covers the mountains again.

In his element

From the first winter back home, it's been skiing, skiing and skiing for Adam. He hasn't looked back.

– I bought a pair of touring skis from my friend Arne, went out into the backcountry, but was also on the ski lift. I just had to do it all, laughs Adam.

He moves between lifts and mountains, between groomed trails and untouched snow. It is not one way of skiing that appeals – it is the whole range. And slowly it becomes clear to him: Here is something that feels right.

– When I am skiing, I can't worry about anything. I concentrate on nature, the surroundings, the speed and the route. It is a free feeling. It is fantastic, says Adam with emphasis in his voice.

It is precisely in this feeling that he finds his point of view. A calmness in movement. A clarity in speed and cold, where everything else disappears. The interest then grows into more than a passion – it becomes his way of life. In 2018, Adam co-founded the adventure company Two Ravens, which offers guided tours in Greenland's vast wilderness.

Adam Kjeldsen on his way up through the mountain with his son Ilik – step by step towards the summit.

Today he has gone his own way again. Almost two years ago, he left Two Ravens and now works as an independent guide with his own one-man company – still with the mountains as his workplace and his skis as his tools. Over the years, Adam has built up a steady circle of clients and partners from abroad – people who seek the raw, the steep and the untouched, which Greenland still has in abundance. His work today ranges from cross-country skiing and ski touring to heliskiing.

Some days the trip takes place at a slow pace, where he and the guests put on their skis and work their way up the mountains step by step. The pulse rises, the silence grows, and the reward awaits at the top: the descent through the powder snow without a single trace.

Other days the ascent takes place from the air. A helicopter lifts Adam and the guests over the mountains, glaciers and fjords around Maniitsoq, among others. Below them, the landscape unfolds on a grand scale, with peaks and ice as far as the eye can see. When they land on the top, the grandeur begins – and the trip down through snow that no one has touched yet.

Downhill in deep powder snow – where the silence is only broken by skis against snow.

When Adam guides, he doesn't just show the way through the mountains. He opens a door into the Greenland he grew up in. For him, the work is about much more than safe routes and good descents. It's about giving guests an understanding of the country behind the landscape – the people, the history, the rhythm and respect for nature.

At a time when growing ski tourism attracts foreign players who come in, guide and travel on again, this is a point that Adam returns to. That experiences in Greenland should also have roots in Greenland. That knowledge of the mountains, the language, the culture and the values ​​have value in themselves.

– When I take tourists on a trip, I always bring some food that is home-cooked so they can taste the culture. Then we sit together, eat and talk. It is very valuable, Adam says warmly.

It is in those moments that he believes the real encounter occurs. Not only between guest and guide, but between people and place. Where Greenland is not just seen – but felt.

Where landscape and life meet

In the summer months, when the mountains are bare and the snow is gone, Adam's everyday life changes. The skis are put away, but he never lets go of nature.

Instead, he works with Vivi and her family in their tourism business, where they take guests out into the mountains on trophy hunts for reindeer and musk oxen, among other things. Here too, the work is about reading the weather, knowing the terrain and moving with respect in the landscape. It's the same world – just in a different season. Vivi is his girlfriend – a soulmate, as he himself describes it. While Adam often talks about speed, movement and adventure, he speaks of her with a different calm.

Trophy hunting takes up at least four months of the year with the in-laws. From left: Karsten, Vivi, Malik, Aqqa and Carsten.

– I fell for her calm. She's an incredibly nice person, and she makes me feel very safe, says Adam.

He pauses for a moment before continuing:

– I have never been very good at expressing myself and my feelings, but with Vivi it ​​has always been completely natural, he says.

His voice cracks a bit, and his eyes glaze over. A moment of silence says more than words: how much she means, and how closely their lives are intertwined between mountains, sea and changing seasons.

Adam and Vivi on the fjord, where mountains and everyday life meet.

There is something in Adam's way of talking about life that constantly returns to the same thing: the movement between people and landscape. Between sea and mountains. Between the close and the open. And perhaps it is precisely there that he has found his place – not in one place, but in the span between everything that has shaped him.

When he today leads guests up through the mountains of Greenland, it is not only as a guide. It is like a person who has grown out of the landscape and is now passing on some of it. Not as a story from the outside, but from the inside. For Adam Kjeldsen, it begins and ends in the same place: in the movement. In the wind, in the snow and in the quiet feeling of freedom that has always accompanied him.

Abonnementer

Sermitsiaq.gl - web artikler

  • Adgang til alle artikler på Sermitsiaq.gl
  • Pr. måned kr. 59.00
  • Pr. år kr. 650.00
Vælg

Sermitsiaq - E-avis

  • Adgang til Sermitsiaq e-avis som udkommer hver fredag
  • Adgang til alle artikler på Sermitsiaq.gl
  • Pris pr. måned kr. 191
  • Pris pr. år kr. 1.677
Vælg

AG - Atuagagdliutit E-avis

  • Adgang til AG - Atuagagdliutit e-avis som udkommer hver fredag
  • Adgang til alle artikler på Sermitsiaq.gl
  • Pris pr. måned kr. 191
  • Pris pr. år kr. 1.677
Vælg

Sermitsiaq.AG+

  • Adgang til AG - Atuagagdliutit e-avis som udkommer hver fredag
  • Adgang til Sermitsiaq e-avis som udkommer hver fredag
  • Adgang til alle artikler på Sermitsiaq.gl
  • Adgang til Arnanut e-magasin
  • Adgang til Nutserisoq.gl
  • Ved interesse send en mail til abonnement@sermitsiaq.gl
Vælg

Kære Læser, Velkommen til Sermitsiaq.gl – din kilde til nyheder og kritisk journalistik fra Grønland. For at kunne fortsætte vores vigtige arbejde med at fremme den frie presse og levere dybdegående, kritisk journalistik, har vi indført betaling for udvalgte artikler. Dette tiltag hjælper os med at sikre kvaliteten af vores indhold og støtte vores dygtige journalister i deres arbejde med at bringe de vigtigste historier frem i lyset. Du kan få adgang til betalingsartiklerne fra kun kr. 59,- pr. måned. Det er nemt og enkelt at købe adgang – klik nedenfor for at komme i gang og få fuld adgang til vores eksklusive indhold. Tak for din forståelse og støtte. Dit bidrag hjælper os med at fortsætte vores mission om at levere uafhængig og kritisk journalistik til Grønland.