The family, the ice and the heritage: A changing fishing life in Havighivik

Spring 2025.

The family Kristensen is on his way out with the dog sleds. They ride in several sleds, and Olennguaq Kristensen's son follows in his own. The goal is clear: They must out and catch sea kings.

Spring 2025.

The family Kristensen is on his way out with the dog sleds. They ride in several sleds, and Olennguaq Kristensen's son follows in his own. The goal is clear: They must out and catch sea kings.

We are in Savissivik – the place where the ice rules.

The village, which is spelled Havighivik by the inhabitants – who numbered 48 at the start of the year – lies south of Qaanaaq in the northwestern part of Melville Bay.

Olennguaq is driving along with his wife, Naduk, and the couple's grandson. There are several long ones in the sled bamboo shafts. At the end of each shaft, Olennguaq himself has made a net - here must the sea kings be captured. It is important that the birds do not get open wounds, as they do would get if they were shot with a rifle because sea kings taste better when they has not bled.

When Olennguaq Kristensen catches a kingfisher, he holds it by the wings so that it does not fly away. With precision he presses on the chest until the heart loosens. That's it traditional way of catching kingfishers in Avanersuaq. A method that has gone in inheritance through generations. Olennguaq didn't grow up with the method, but it is something he has learned in Savissivik.

More sea kings richer, the family withdraws, and decides to look for polar bears.

They spot polar bear tracks. There must be one in nearby, Olennguaq thinks.

- Let's go up there and check Facebook and see if anyone has seen it, says Olennguaq.

But the signal was too weak. That's why his is calling wife to their daughter to find out if anyone has shot a polar bear. No - none news.

The heart begins to hit a little faster and they follow the tracks. After only five minutes they catch sight at the bear, which has already begun to flee. Olennguaq acts quickly: he cuts some of the ropes on the dog sled so the dogs can run after the bear and hold it back.

When the dogs get the animal to stand still, they themselves attack to kill it. It's like that one does in Savissivik, a method that has been used for generations where humans and dogs work together to survive in the harsh nature.

Watch the video where the Kristensen family is polar bear hunting.

Father as teacher

Olennguaq Kristensen, who originally comes from Nuussuaq in the Upernavik area, has lived in Savissivik for 30 years. He moved to the settlement in 1995, where his wife is from.

- I always have been a prisoner, except for the four years when I worked as a part-time teacher the school. But when there were no longer enough students, I went back to the catch, he tells.

After his confirmation, he followed in his father's footsteps. He was a prisoner. Ever since, Olennguaq has engaged in hunting. But the catching methods have changed over the years.

Now he tries for example catching seals with nets.

- We can't longer rely on the sea ice. That's why I now set nets east of the settlement, where there there is still some sea ice. We'll have to go ashore first before we reach a bit ice, where the yarn can be set, he says.

Sea ice Unpredictability has become one of the biggest challenges of life as a prisoner Savissivik.

- The sea ice is three months late. Therefore, our fishing trips during the dark are now affected of the unstable sea ice that is no longer solid. It is dangerous to try to go out further when it's so dark. It helps when the light starts to turn back, he says.

Today it is most light at two or three o'clock the afternoon. Here they can see icebergs on the coast.

- But we can't see seals, for example, that is way too dark. We use flashlights a lot. When we go dog sledding, is it safe enough because the dogs know where to go even if it is very dark, he says.

Storage all year round

Olennguaq Kristensen follows the seasons of the catch and collects for storage. Spring and summer it is narwhal season.

- We pack the meat in portions, then it ready to take up during the winter. In the summer, we dry the meat, says Olennguaq Kristensen.

- When I have caught a beluga whale in the fall, I put it in a box that I use specifically for freezing it raw with lard and meat, he says.

Something Olennguaq Kristensen tries to do every year, is to ferment sea kings. It is called 'kiviaq', which is a traditional eat in North Greenland. The birds are wrapped in a seal, sewn together and sealed with seal grease before being buried in a stone coffin for several months to ferment.

- We do the same with walrus meat, and that's it lie underground for a long time, covered with stones, but at the same time there must be air circulation, tells Olennguaq Kristensen.

Shuts down narwhal in kayak

Of the big animals Olennguaq Kristensen's favorite catch is the narwhal.

- I'd rather catching narwhals from my kayak. But we take the boat to the place with the whales. We use the elderly's knowledge of their movements, he tells.

They sail out in the dinghy and patiently waits for the narwhals with the engine switched off. When the animals come in sight, Olennguaq sits in his kayak and paddles quietly and purposefully towards them.

- Ever since I learned to go narwhaling by kayak, it has been my favorite method, he says.

From his kayak mourns Olennguaq with a sure hand and a captive bladder, to kill the narwhal without risk of it sinking.

He makes the prison bladder himself.

- I usually make the bladder the old fashioned way seal skin method. I try as much as possible to make a captive bladder straight after I have caught a seal and the fur is intact. I only remove hair and blubber the neck area, says Olennguaq Kristensen.

In that way not only does he save money, but it is also more efficient.

All of them skills and the knowledge that Olennguaq has, he makes sure to pass on to everyone his seven children.

- They participate all together. I make sure my sons have their own boat. In this way, we ensure a bigger catch. For example, when we are on a narwhal hunt, I harpoon first, and then one of my sons will be allowed to harpoon it again from theirs kayak, he says.

Olennguaq and Naduk has eight grandchildren – all boys.

This is how to live Olennguaq Kristensen his life in Havighivik, closely connected with both family and nature. He mourns the knowledge and skills he has learned from the elders carefully to pass on to his children and grandchildren, so the traditions and the experience of generations is not lost.